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Hutongs and Street
How many hutongs are there in Beijing? Old local
residents have a saying: “There are 360 large hutongs and as many
small hutongs as there are hairs on an ox.” Laid out in a chessboard
pattern which was established as early as the Ming Dynasty, these
hutongs cross–cut the city into tiny squares. In those days the
capital was divided into the eastern, western, northern, southern and
central districts, with a total of 33 neighborhoods, divided again
into hutongs. In the Tang Dynasty, the city, then named
Youzhou, was divided into 28 walled residential districts guarded by
sentries. A curfew was enforced at night. Youzhou was renamed Xijunfu
in the Liao Dynasty and the city was divided into 26 residential
districts. In the Jin Dynasty it became Zhongdu (the Central Capital)
and was divided again into 60 residential areas. Under the Yuan, the
city was renamed Dadu (Great Capital) and divided into 50 districts,
including Jintaifang (Golden Terrace District) and Wendefang
(Literature and Morality District). The 33 neighborhoods
mentioned above were established under the Ming emperors Hongwu
(reigned 1368-1398) and Jianwen (reigned 1399-1402). The figure
increased to 40 after the time of Emperor Yongle (reigned1403-1424).
The Qing rulers made use of the existing city structure and divided
the capital into five districts, reducing the number of residential
districts to 10. During the last years of Dynasty, the old residential
district system was abolished and Beijing divided into 10 outer
districts and 12 inner districts. The city is now divided into four
districts -- East City, West City, Chongwen and Xuanwu -- each of
these comprised of numerous sub districts. At present,
there are about 4,550 hutongs, the broadest over four meters wide and
the smallest -- the eastern part of Dongfu’ an Hutong, a mere 70 cm
across -- just wide enough for a single person to traverse. Although
the city has changed a great deal over the last 500 years, the hutongs
remain much the same as during Ming and Qing times.
Beijing’s best known hutongs are of three types: centers of government
offices, residential areas for nobles and officials, and old markets.
Lumicang (Salary Rice Granary) Hutongs, in the neighborhood of today’
s Nanxiao Street, is the site of the former nine imperial granaries of
the late Ming and early Qing. Each year, large amounts of grain were
brought in from Zhejing Province to the capital and stored in Lumicang
District. Hutongs in the area took on the names of the various
granaries, names that have stuck to this day. Then there’s Xishiku
(Western General Warehouse) Alley off Xi’ anmennei Street, once called
Houku Dajie (Back Warehouse Street) for its 10 warehouses serving the
imperial palaces and gardens. Dongchang (Eastern
Prosperity) Hutong, originally called Dongchang (eastern Yard) Hutong,
located south of the National Art Galley, was named in the Yongle
period for the offices of the newly created eunuch administration. The
Dongchang had a reputation for terrorizing innocent people. It was
here that the eunuchs Liu Jin and Wei Zhongxian had numerous people,
including members of the imperial family, high officials and nobles,
put to death. The second group of hutongs is named after
the officials or nobles who resided there. When Emperor Yongle of the
Ming Dynasty established Beijing as the capital, most of his officials
moved from Nanjing. The alleys they lived in took on their names.
Yongkang Hutong in the north was originally named Marquis Yongkang
Lane after the Yongkang Marquis, Xu Zhong. Sanbulao (Three–Never-Old)
Hutong on the West City District was originally named Sanbao Laodie
(Father Sanbao) Alley after the “Sanbao” court eunuch, Zheng He, who
lived there. Sanbao is a corruption of the original name; Laodie is a
term of respect for an elder person. In the East City
District is the Red Star Hutong, once named His Excellency Wuliang
(Immeasurable) Alley, taken from the name of Emperor Hongwu’s general
Wu Liang (Written differently from wuliang, immeasurable). In Xisi
(Western Four Archways), there are the Front, middle and Rear
Maojiawan hutongs, said to have once been home of the Ming Dynasty
scholar Mao Wenjian. Finally. There are those hutongs,
which derive their names from old markets and trading centers. These
include Xianyukou (Fresh Fish Market), Luomasi (Horse and Mule
Market), Gangwasi (Pottery Market), Yangsi (Goat Market), Meisi (Coal
Market) and Zhubaosi (Jewelry Market). Other hutongs are named for
historical sites and ancient relics. Qilinbei (Unicorn Stela) Hutong,
north of Eastern Di’ anmen Street, is named for a Ming Dynasty stela
that once stood at its entrance. Anecdotes and legends
abound. There is a slab of stone, the top (or “hat”) of which is
carved into a beautiful branch of plum blossoms with a crescent moon
at its tip in the Xianyougong Illustrious Blessing Hall) in Mao’ er
(Hat) Alley. Story has it that there was a “plum blossom girl” who
painted such lovely blossoms in the old days. |
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